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Sometimes a Great Notion

Sometimes a Great Notion (Extract Recipe)

Sometimes a Great Notion Hazy IPA Label

DESCRIPTION
This hazy IPA is bursting with a blend of citrus and tropical hop flavors. The soft mouth-feel and restrained bitterness is reminiscent of a NE IPA, but with our unique NW twist. We created this recipe with some of our favorite hop varieties; Mosaic, Citra, & Galaxy. We’re still homebrewers at heart, and are excited to partner with F.H. Steinbart Co. to bring you this unique recipe kit.
–James, Andy, Paul & the Great Notion Team

5 Gallon Extract with Specialty Grains
60 Minute Boil Time
Ready in 3-4 weeks

OG 1.070
FG 1.010
ABV 7%
SRM 4
IBU 45

FERMENTABLES
6 lb. Extra-light dry malt extract (DME)
1 lb. Wheat dry malt extract (DME)
1 lb. Dextrose (corn sugar)

STEEPING GRAINS
1 lb. Flaked oats
1 lb. Carapils (dextrin) malt

HOPS
4 oz. Mosaic pellet hops
4 oz. Citra pellet hops
4 oz. Galaxy pellet hops

YEAST
Imperial Yeast #A38 Juice

OTHER
1 Grain steeping bag
12 Hop steeping bags
4 oz. Dextrose (corn sugar) – bottle priming

ON BREW DAY
Be sure to read all instruction before beginning

  1. Use as much water as your kettle will allow (up to 6 gallons). The larger the boil, the more effective your hops will be (See note at end of this recipe for more details).
  2. Steep crushed grains in steeping bag for 20-30 min. at approximately 160°F. Remove grains and discard.
  3. Add dry malt extract (DME) and stir to dissolve. The liquid is now called wort. Bring liquid to a boil, watching carefully for boil overs.
  4. Chill wort to under 100°F1 as fast as possible and as close to 65°F as possible (If you do not have a wort chiller, set the kettle in an ice bath in your sink).
  5. While the wort is chilling, sanitize fermenting equipment, carboy, stopper, airlock, funnel, etc.
  6. Pour chilled wort into fermenter and place in a location that allows fermentation to occur at 65°F (or as close as possible).
  7. Aerate wort by putting a stopper in the carboy and rocking it back and forth for several minutes.
  8. Optional: take a specific gravity reading using a triple scale hydrometer. The reading should be approximately 1.070 SG. Record the number as your OG (original gravity).
  9. Pitch your yeast when the wort is at appropriate temperature (65°F). Fill airlock with water or sanitizer to the fill line and seal fermenter.

HOP SCHEDULE
A standard hop schedule tells you when to add your hops to the kettle throughout the one hour boiling time. Hops added “@ 60 min.” are boiled for the entire hour. Hops added “@ 15 min.” are added when there are 15 minutes remaining in the boil. Hops added at the end of the boil or “@ 0 min.” are refereed to as “flame-out” hops and left to steep in the hot wort prior to chilling for 10-20 min. Use 1 oz. of hop pellets per steeping bag and tie a knot at the top, allowing as much room as possible for the hops to expand inside the bag.

Great Notion employs a unique hopping strategy to obtain huge amounts of flavor without increasing the bitterness. While it might seem unconventional to boil for an hour before adding bittering hops, rest assured this special technique lies at the heart of Great Notion’s signature flavor profile.

HOP SCHEDULE
2 oz. Citra pellet hops @ 0 min. (flame-out)
2 oz. Mosaic pellet hops @ 0 min. (flame-out)
2 oz. Citra pellet hops @ dry-hop for 7 days
2 oz. Mosaic pellet hops @ dry-hop for 7 days
4 oz. Galaxy pellet hops @ dry-hop for 7 days

PRIMARY FERMENTATION
A wide-mouth carboy is recommended for dry-hopped beers. You will begin to see activity in the fermenter within 24 hours. A foamy cap will develop on the top of the beer and bubbles will escape through the airlock. Over the next several days the activity will begin to slow down. Primary fermentation typically lasts one week. After the primary fermentation completes, it is ready for dry hopping.

DRY HOP
Place fermenter in a location where you can hold the temperature at 70°F (to maximize dry-hop extraction and allow the yeast to finish).

Add 4 oz. Galaxy, 2 oz. Citra, and 2 oz. Mosaic pellets for 7 days before packaging (do not exceed the 7 days, it is better to remove them a day early than to leave in longer).

BOTTLING & BEYOND
Fermentation is finished when the final gravity (FG) reads 1.010 SG +/- 2-3 points, but timing at this stage is flexible. When you are ready to bottle your beer:

  1. Make a simple syrup by combining 4 oz. of dextrose (corn sugar) in a pint of water on the stove.
  2. Bring the sugar solution to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes.
  3. Let this cool to room temperature. Sanitize your bottling equipment; bottles, auto-siphon, tubing, bottle filler, and bottle caps.
  4. Add the cooled priming sugar solution into the bottling bucket.
  5. Siphon your beer into the bottling bucket to mix thoroughly with the sugar.
  6. Then siphon the beer into your bottles using the bottle filler and secure the caps. Your beer will be ready to drink after conditioning for two weeks at room temperature (70-74°F is best).
  7. Once conditioning is complete place bottles in cool place and/or refrigerate. It is best to refrigerate for 24-48 hours before opening to ensure that the CO2 generated during bottle conditioning has fully mixed in with the beer.
  8. Pop the cap, relax, don’t worry, you’re drinking homebrew!

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One Hour Kettle Sour – Gose

One Hour Kettle Sour

Gose  –  Recipe

Intimidating to novice and veteran homebrewer’s alike – sour beers don’t necessarily have to be daunting, or even require separate equipment. Two outstanding exploratory sour beer styles are Berliner Weisse and Gose, which were developed many ages ago in Germany.  Both are extremely drinkable sour ales, ranging from approximately 3%-5% ABV. Let’s focus for now on the slightly-salty and thirst-quenching Gose (pronounced Go-zeh).  The overall impression from the 2015 BJCP Style Guidelines for Gose: “A highly-carbonated, tart and fruity wheat ale with a restrained coriander and salt character and low bitterness. Very refreshing, with bright flavors and high attenuation.”  For this homebrew kettle sour recipe, let’s keep it simple and quick – like a couple 10-minute boils with 100% dry malt extract (DME) kind-of-quick.

Why extract-only?  You can undoubtedly make an equally great tasting all-grain version of this Gose recipe, but I’ve found that the benefits are not discernable enough to justify the additional hours of effort.  The straightforward approach of this extract-only method allows you to focus your time and energy on the truly essential steps of brewing a kettle-sour.  Still unconvinced?  That’s understandable – but first consider the results below.

“Boom Gose the Dynamite”

Recipe Details

Batch SizeBoil TimeIBUSRMEst. OGEst. FGABV
5.5 gal20 min0.0 IBUs4.2 SRM1.0361.0093.5 %
Actuals1.0361.0083.7 %

Style Details

NameCat.OG RangeFG RangeIBUSRMCarbABV
Gose271.036 - 1.0561.006 - 1.015 - 123 - 42.6 - 3.44.2 - 4.8 %

Fermentables

NameAmount%
DME Wheat Bavarian (Briess)2.75 lbs61.11
DME Pilsen Light (Briess)1.75 lbs38.89

Miscs

NameAmountminType
Whirlfloc Tablet0.50 Items10 minBoilFining
Immersion Chiller1.00 Items10 minBoilOther
Yeast Nutrient0.50 tsp10 minBoilOther
Coriander Seed (Crushed)0.40 oz0 minBoilSpice
Pink Himalayan Salt0.40 oz0 minBoilSpice
Goodbelly Plus Shot (Mango)2.00 Items0 minPrimaryOther
Lactic Acid1.00 tbsp0 minPrimaryWater Agent

Yeast

NameLabAttenuationTemperature
Citrus (A20)Imperial76%67°F - 80°F

Mash

StepTemperatureTime
Saccharification146°F60 min

Notes

Water Profile - Ca 21, Mg 13, Na 15, SO4 3, Cl 27

The above Gose recipe has placed 1st multiple times in local homebrew competitions, but like any good story of triumph there must be an equal element of failure—at least in my case.  When I attempted my first kettle-soured Gose late last year, I added approximately 5 IBU’s of hops to the fairly simple all-grain recipe – and after 1 week, with a large film of black mold atop the wort, and no perceivable sourness I needed a plan B.  With help from Milk the Funk online community and the folks at FH Steinbart’s, I decided to give it a second attempt, despite my frustrations of moldy disappointment.

The moldy disappointment – this would be the catalyst for my second triumphant attempt.

So, what did I learn?  1) Lactobacillus from the grocery store GoodBelly brand probiotics (the bacteria responsible for the kettle-souring in this recipe) doesn’t tolerate hops – as in not at all – zero IBU’s.  2) You can make an award-winning Gose with 100% DME as your base.  The following recipe process walkthrough will help ensure success on your first attempt of this exceptional beer style. The overall plan for this kettle-soured recipe will take place over a two-day timeframe (all inside of your brew kettle), so if you’re planning to brew this beer please forecast accordingly on your calendar!  Think of it like two mini brew session’s – each one only taking around 30 minutes to complete, and well worth the minimal time investment.

Keep it simple on your first kettle-sour with two main ingredients.

Process – Day 1

To begin, measure out all of your ingredients upfront before the start of the boil.  This kettle-sour recipe follows a straightforward process, but it’s also very rapid, so preparation is key to a smooth brewday.  Crack open the coriander seeds by placing them in a plastic sandwich bag and crush the seeds with a rolling pin.  Weigh out the coriander along with your salt & DME.

Measure out Coriander & Salt flameout additions.

Fill up your kettle with approximately 5.25 gallons of tap water, and begin heating up the water up to about 180 F before adding the DME to the kettle.  Turn off the heat source, add the entire 4.5 pounds of dry malt extract, and stir in well to ensure no clumps of malt extract remain.  After this, turn the heat back on in preparation for the initial 10-minute boil.

Turn off the kettle flame before adding the DME and mix thoroughly.

If using an immersion chiller, go ahead and add it to your kettle after mixing in your DME.  This is also a good time to take a gravity reading of the pre-boil wort. Keep in mind that this gravity (unlike a typical 60-minute boil) is not going to increase very substantially due to the extremely short boil duration.  It should read around 9 brix on a refractometer (as pictured above), or 1.036 with a hydrometer.  Once the boil begins, start a timer for 10 minutes.  Get ready, you’re almost halfway done!  After the abbreviated boil, turn off the heat source and add the 0-minute additions of Coriander, Salt, and Lactic Acid.

For those concerned that such a short overall boil will have negative effects/off flavors in the finished product—I’ve also made a similar kettle-soured Berliner Weisse (all-grain recipe) that I followed the same process and only boiled for 10-minutes during each stage, and it placed Honorable Mention Best-of-Show in competition.  Again, I know this still makes some folks uneasy, but the proof is in the results.

Wort-chiller in at beginning and bring to boil, hold for 10 minutes before chilling to kettle souring temperature.

The Lactic Acid addition at flameout helps pre-acidify the wort to around 4.5 pH, which will aid in preventing spoilage from other unwanted bacteria, and is said to improve head retention in the finished beer.  The remainder of our Lactic Acid sourness will come from the use of Lactobacillus Bacteria.  Chill the wort to 90-95 F and bring inside for the next steps.

1 tbsp. of Lactic Acid is added post-boil for pre-acidification of the wort.

Next, you’ll need to sanitize and add the contents of two GoodBelly PlusShot packages to your Gose wort.  These can typically be purchased in grocery stores like Whole Foods, New Seasons, or Natural Grocers, etc.  Lactobacillus Plantarum 299V (L. Plantarum) is the Lactic Acid Bacteria responsible for the souring ability of the GoodBelly products. Unlike most other commercially available Lactobacillus cultures, L. Plantarum creates lactic acid incredibly fast, thrives at room temperature, and doesn’t require any sort of starter before pitching directly into your wort.  Unlike brewer’s yeast, this acid producing bacteria won’t convert sugar into alcohol.  The Mango Plus shots come in 4-packs and cost roughly $4, so you’re going to have two extra remaining for another quick sour beer, or merely consumed for digestion health – a win win situation.

GoodBelly shots are very happy to help you make a great first Gose

After adding the probiotics to the warm wort, cover the top of the kettle with cellophane wrap and place the lid on.  There’s really no need to do anything else for now – it may feel somewhat strange to do so little up to this point, and that’s perfectly fine.  Don’t put away all of your brewing equipment just yet, you’re going to complete another mini-brew session the following day.

Cover the kettle with cellophane wrap and place the lid on during the souring process.

Find and old blanket and cover the kettle to retain the majority of the heat.  No need to maintain a perfectly constant 90 F with the L. Plantarum bacteria.  It will certainly sour the wort a bit quicker the closer it is to 90 F, but it also works extremely well at room temperature conditions.  Your wort should typically drop to a range of 3.3 – 3.5 pH (a great level for this style) within 24 to 36 hours. 

Wrap up the kettle in a blanket (aiming for 70-90F) and leave inside for 24 to 36 hours before boiling a second time.

Process – Day 2

If you have a pH meter I’d recommend taking a sample around the 24-hour mark.  Otherwise, simply sample a small amount of the soured wort with a sanitized cup (assuming there is no visible mold or other strange looking films or vile odors—it should however smell tart).  If it’s to your liking, move on to the next step.  Otherwise, let it sour another 8-12 hours repeating this same tasting & sampling process every 4 hours (note – the pH drops fairly rapidly after 24 hours, but should stabilize at around 3.2 if you accidentally forget about it).

pH reading at 24 hours in – aiming for a pH of 3.3 to 3.5, but a meter isn’t necessary to brew a great Gose.

After achieving your desired level of acidity, you’re now ready to boil the wort for the second time.  This secondary boil serves to kill-off any bacteria (including the probiotics) before you pitch your brewer’s yeast.  Proceed at this point like you would for your standard extract or all-grain brewing process.  If you feel obligated to add any hops to your recipe, this would be a suitable time do so (but not necessary for this recipe & style).  After the secondary 10-minute boil, chill the wort to 68 F and pitch the Imperial A20 – Citrus yeast into your sanitized fermenter.

Don’t be alarmed – Lactobacillus doesn’t enjoy being boiled and will make a cool-whip like foamy hot break!

Fermentation & Packaging

After 7-10 days of primary fermentation around 68-70 F, your Gose should be stable at a final gravity of approximately 1.006 to 1.010. Rack the beer into a sanitized keg or bottling bucket and aim for a carbonation level a bit higher level than most ales – around 3.0 levels of CO2.  The higher carbonation will enhance the effervescent and refreshing quality of your finished Gose.

After the second boil wort is chilled – proceed like any other batch of homebrew.

The finished beer will likely remain cloudy for a few weeks, which is completely acceptable for the style.  For those still nervous about cross-contamination, rest assured, your brewing gear is just fine and not infected with Lactobacillus.  Clean and sanitize your brewing equipment as you would following any other batch, nothing out of the ordinary.

You’ve made it – now enjoy your Gose, and go mow the lawn (taster glass optional)!

Cheers!  You just gave up about one-hour of your precious time, but you gained an incredibly delicious session sour beer that my Mother-in-Law affectionately calls “Margarita Beer”.  This recipe has quickly become a summer staple at my house, and a very refreshing lawnmower beer.  Your non-beer friends will most likely enjoy this salty & sour brew as well, even if they typically don’t care for ‘craft’ beer.  Congratulations—you’ve successfully made an outstanding homebrewed sour beer (possibly your first) in about one hour.  Not very intimidating anymore, right?

 

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FH Steinbart Featured in May/June 2018 Zymurgy

FH Steinbart: 100 Years of Homebrewed Independence

From Prohibition in 1920 to the legalization of homebrewing in 1978 to hazy milkshake IPAs in 2018, FH Steinbart Co. seen a lot as part of the homebrew community for the past 100 years. Check out this profile of America’s oldest homebrew supply shop, originally published in Zymurgy by the American Homebrewers Association.

HERE IS A LINK TO THE ARTICLE

Here is a link to HomebrewersAssociation.org

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Tips for Dispensing Beer on Nitrogen

Stout faucet with Nitro beer and disc st patty day

Tips for Dispensing Beer on Nitrogen

]With St. Patrick’s Day around the corner it’s not unusual for our Draft team to get more questions from home brewers and folks with home draft systems about dispensing beer on nitrogen. Without a doubt, certain beers lend themselves well to the nitro method of serving. Guinness on draft, with its iconic head, is but one fine example. More than likely you can create a similar experience at home but there are some caveats we feel obligated to share.

Stout faucet with Nitro beer and disc st patty dayFirst and foremost there is an added expense to dispensing on nitrogen. At a minimum you will need a bottle of blended gas – a mix of CO2 and nitrogen sometimes referred to as beer gas or Guinness gas. If that mixed gas comes in a CO2 cylinder, you may be able to use your existing CO2 regulator. If, however, the mixed gas is in a nitrogen cylinder, you will need a specific nitrogen regulator, as the fittings are different from CO2.

If your goal is to approximate the cascading bubbles and creamy head of a perfectly built Guinness, you will also require a stout faucet (also sometimes called a nitro faucet). The mechanics of the stout faucet are designed to break up the beer, thus agitating the nitrogen and CO2 in the beer – essential for creating those fine rolling bubbles and that thick frothy head.

Homebrewers wishing to put their own creations on nitro should be aware that it may take some bit of trial and error before you are able to dial in your desired blend of CO2 and nitrogen mix into the initial carbonation of your beer. Yes, even nitrogen beers have CO2 in them. Because nitrogen does not truly dissolve into liquid as CO2 does, beers like Guinness do indeed have some amount of CO2 in them to provide even subtle amounts of carbonation.

Perhaps the greatest downside to serving beer from a blended gas or nitro system is that the beer will likely give the impression of being flat after several weeks from tapping the keg. In a beer carbonated with 100% CO2 and dispensed from a properly balanced system each time a beer is drawn, the right amount of CO2 is put back into the headspace of the keg to keep the remaining beer properly carbonated. In a nitro system, nitrogen and CO2 are both being introduced into the headspace of a keg as each beer is drawn. But since nitrogen does not absorb into liquid there is nothing to completely hold the carbonation in that beer in the keg. In as little as 10 days you will likely notice even a subtle change in the profile of the beer ranging from the appearance of the head to mouthfeel to even flavor. It isn’t that the beer is going bad per se. It’s just losing its carbonation and therefore some of its character.

With the exception of the nitrogen cylinders and the gas itself, the Draft Department at FH Steinbart Co. has the equipment for your nitrogen dispensing needs. Stop by and see us, give us a call or drop us a note.  We’re here to help.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

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Mecca Grade Malthouse and Farm Tour

In today’s world of global industry, malt production for beer brewing is a pursuit of massive scale, impeccable consistency, and relentless efficiency. In contrast, Seth Klann and his family are producing malt with a focus ALWAYS on flavor. Every step of the process, from breed selection to kilning has been diligently curated to yield products that stand alone in quality and individuality. We recently had the opportunity to tour the Mecca Grade malthouse and farm in Madras, OR and participate in an innovative sensory analysis exercise at his laboratory / taproom onsite.

The original barn from 1905. I hadn’t realized that the farm is older than Steinbart Co.!

Madras is high desert country, with average yearly rainfall at about 12 inches (Portland received about that much in February 2017!). I was intrigued to learn that there is a good reason to grow malt in Madras, as the hot, dry climate lends itself well to seed production. If you have ever grown basil, cilantro or fresh greens in the summer, you know why the desert would make for a great place to grow seed.

For anyone who questions the desert-like nature of the Madras region, note the scorpion that I shook out of my boot on the first morning of our trip.

Beer Nerd Achievement Unlocked!

When we arrived at the malthouse, Seth lead us through a blind sensory exercise called the “Hot Steep Method” of various pilsner malts, including his “Pelton” iteration. The method has recently been approved by the American Society of Brewing Chemists for sensory analysis. It is a great method of tasting malt ingredients that uses common equipment and can be done in the home quickly. Read more about the method (here ←–link).

I was enlightened by the exercise, as I have developed an expectation that Mecca Grade malts are “malty-er” than their non-craft counterparts. But I was surprised to find that Pelton was the lightest in color, and full of classic haylike and grassy notes. This was not just a “pilsner-esque” malt, it was exemplary. It was nice to see that Seth’s malts can shine in traditional styles and purposes.

After the sensory we spent some time in Seth’s Lab and Brewery. He has built an impressive electric brewery, with all the bells and whistles. It seems he does a lot of testing in there on his own, although all the analysis of Mecca products that you see posted is from an independent party.

Can you guess what a friabilimeter measures?

After learning a lot in the lab, we moved on to the malthouse where Seth was steeping a batch of Vanora in his One-of-a-kind “mechanical floor-malter”. Seth designed and built this all-in-one machine from the ground up. It slowly turns over a long and shallow bed of malt constantly during steeping and kilning, ensuring unrivaled consistency, kernel by kernel. As I watched the behemoth slowly churn out Oregon’s finest malt, it became apparent to me the innovation at play in Seth’s invention. The “Uni-Malter” steeps and kilns in the same machine, 12 tons at a time. (Due to the proprietary nature of the machine, we won’t be posting any pictures of the Uni-Malter.)

Although this silo holds one million pounds of grain (and they have four of them!), Mecca Grade is still a tiny malthouse in relation to the rest of the industry. It was impressive to see such vast amounts of material completely processed by just two people.

As we proceeded to tour the fields of the Klaan family farm, Seth and Brad showed us the test field, where they are growing experimental breeds of barley in a search for Oregon’s next ground-breaking beer ingredient. In partnership OSU’s barley breeding program, The Mecca Grade farm is doing their part to grow, analyze, and brew with the next generation of malt breeds. The potential is exciting, to say the least. There is talk of a hybrid malt of Maris Otter and Full Pint (potentially called Maris Beaver, in reference to the OSU mascot!) or Golden Promise and Full Pint (Oregon Promise).

In the back of the Farm is a lookout from “The Mecca Grade”, with a spectacular view of the Deschutes River. Wild high desert herbs like yarrow and sage grow here, and Seth sometimes employs them in his brews as a nod to land that produces his malt.

The view from “the Mecca Grade” looking over the Deschutes River.

For brewers like me who are always seeking the highest quality and authenticity in beer ingredients, Mecca Grade malts are in a class of their own. Full Pint is truly a breed of barley that belongs to Oregon, and the malt made from it is distinctively ours as well. To learn more about the line of malts we offer check out Seth’s descriptions here: See Our Mecca Page

We brought a keg of beer to serve in the Mecca Grade taproom, however, we found it necessary to tap it a little early, during our camping trip in Ochoco Forest. Here we used nature’s kegerator to keep it chilled.

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Nut Brown Ale

nut brown ale home brew recipe

Nut Brown Ale

by Jamil Zainasheff, author of Brewing Classic Styles

Description: A mildly hopped classic English-style Brown ale with a complex caramel biscuit flavor and subtle chocolate nutty flavors. Nottingham yeast adds a clean crisp finish that allows the malt bill to shine. 

Malt

7 lb. Light Liquid Malt Extract

12 oz. Special Roast Malt

8 oz. Victory malt

8 oz. Crystal 40

4 oz. Pale Chocolate Malt

Hops

2 oz. Domestic Goldings

Yeast

Dry option- Nottingham

Liquid option- Imperial Pub or Wyeast 1028

You will also need:

4 oz. Priming Sugar for bottling

2 Hop Steeping Bags

Optional- 1 Whirflock Tablet (to clarify beer)

 

ABV= 4.8%

IBU= 25

OG= 1.054

FG= 1.014

SRM= 18

 

On Brew Day

  1. Heat 2.5 gallons of good quality water
  2. Steep crushed grains in steeping bag for 20-30 minutes or until the water reaches 170. Remove grains and compost.
  3. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Add liquid and/ or Dry Malt extract and stir to dissolve. The liquid is now called wort.  Return liquid to a boil, watching carefully for boil overs.

 

During the boil

A standard hop schedule tells you when to add your hops to the kettle throughout the one hour boiling time. Hops added

at 60 minutes are boiled for the entire hour. Hops added at 15 minutes are added when there are 15 minutes remaining in the boil. Etc.

  1. Use one ounce of hop pellets per steeping bag and tie a knot at the top- allowing as much room as possible for the hops to expand inside the bag.

Hop Schedule:

1 oz. Dom. Goldings @ 60 min.

(Add the Whirflock tablet at 15 min.)

1 oz. Dom. Goldings @ 5 min.

 

  1. Chill wort to 100 degrees as fast as possible. If you do not have a wort chiller, set the kettle in an ice bath in your sink.
  2. While the wort is chilling, sanitize fermenting equipment, carboy, stopper, airlock, funnel, etc.
  3. Add 2.5 gal. cold clean water to primary fermenter. Pour chilled wort into fermenter and top off with more cold water to reach 5 gallons.
  4. Aerate wort by putting a stopper in the carboy and rocking it back and forth for several minutes.
  5. Optional- take a specific gravity reading using a triple scale hydrometer and hydrometer jar. The reading should be approximately 1.054 Record the number as your OG (original gravity)
  6. Pitch your yeast when the wort is at room temperature (60-75 degrees.) Fill airlock with water or sanitizer to the fill line and seal fermenter.

 

Primary Fermentation

You will begin to see activity in the fermenter within 48 hours. A foamy cap will develop on the top of the beer and bubbles will escape through the airlock. Over the next several days the activity will begin to slow down. Primary fermentation typically lasts one to two weeks. Optional- rack the beer into a sanitized carboy being careful to leave behind any sediment. Leave the beer in this secondary fermenter for an additional one to two more weeks.

 

Bottling and Beyond

Fermentation is finished when the final gravity (FG) reads approximately 1.014, but the timing at this stage is flexible. When you are ready to bottle your beer, make a simple syrup by combing 4 oz. of priming sugar in a cup or two of water on the stove. Let this cool to room temperature. Sanitize your bottling equipment (Fifty 12 oz. bottles, auto-siphon, tubing, bottle filler, and bottle caps) and add the sugar to the bottling bucket. Siphon your beer into the bottling bucket and then siphon the beer into your bottles and cap. Your beer will be ready to drink after conditioning for two weeks at room temperature.

 

If you have any questions about the instructions in this recipe please call: 503 232 8793 or email info@fhsteinbart.com

 

Malt

 

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NorthWest Red Ale

Northwest Red Ale Recipe

Northwest Red Ale

Source- Jeremy Morton-Maxson

Description: A classic blend of malty caramel notes and bright hoppy flavors. Light copper in color and medium bodied in strength, this Red Ale has minimal bitterness and very subtle fruit esters. A well-balanced crowd pleasing beer.

 

Malt

7 lb. Light Liquid Malt Extract

2 oz. Black Patent Malt

8 oz. Melanoidin

 

Hops

1 oz. Columbus

1 oz. Cascade

 

Yeast

Dry option-US05

Liquid option- Imperial Flagship or Wyeast 1056

 

You will also need:

2 tsp. Burton Water Salts

4 oz. Priming Sugar for bottling

2 Hop Steeping Bags

Optional- 1 Whirfloc Tablet (to clarify beer)

ABV= 5%

IBU= 30

OG= 1.052

FG= 1.012

SRM= 14

 

On Brew Day

  1. Heat 2.5 gallons of good quality water. Add water salts.
  2. Steep crushed grains in steeping bag for 20-30 minutes or until the water reaches 170. Remove grains and compost.
  3. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Add liquid and/ or Dry Malt extract and stir to dissolve. The liquid is now called wort. Return liquid to a boil, watching carefully for boil overs.

 

During the boil

A standard hop schedule tells you when to add your hops to the kettle throughout the one hour boiling time. Hops added

at 60 minutes are boiled for the entire hour. Hops added at 15 minutes are added when there are 15 minutes remaining

in the boil. Etc.

 

  1. Use one ounce of hop pellets per steeping bag and tie a knot at the top- allowing as much room as possible for the hops to expand inside the bag.

Hop Schedule:

1 oz. Columbus @ 60 min.

.5 oz. Cascade @ 15 min.

(Add the Whirflock tablet at 15 min.)

.5 oz. Cascade @ 0 min.

 

  1. Chill wort to 100 degrees as fast as possible. If you do not have a wort chiller, set the kettle in an ice bath in your sink.
  2. While the wort is chilling, sanitize fermenting equipment, carboy, stopper, airlock, funnel, etc.
  3. Add 2.5 gal. cold clean water to primary fermenter. Pour chilled wort into fermenter and top off with more cold water to reach 5 gallons.
  4. Aerate wort by putting a stopper in the carboy and rocking it back and forth for several minutes.
  5. Optional- take a specific gravity reading using a triple scale hydrometer and hydrometer jar. The reading should be approximately 1.052 Record the number as your OG (original gravity)
  6. Pitch your yeast when the wort is at room temperature (68-70 degrees.) Fill airlock with water or sanitizer to the fill line and seal fermenter.

 

Primary Fermentation

You will begin to see activity in the fermenter within 48 hours. A foamy cap will develop on the top of the beer and bubbles will escape through the airlock. Over the next several days the activity will begin to slow down. Primary fermentation typically lasts one to two weeks. Optional- rack the beer into a sanitized carboy being careful to leave behind any sediment. Leave the beer in this secondary fermenter for an additional one to two more weeks.

 

Bottling and Beyond

Fermentation is finished when the final gravity (FG) reads approximately 1.012, but timing at this stage is flexible. When you are ready to bottle your beer, make a simple syrup by combing 4 oz. of priming sugar in a cup or two of water on the stove. Let this cool to room temperature. Sanitize your bottling equipment (Fifty 12 oz. bottles, auto-siphon, tubing, bottle filler, and bottle caps) and add the sugar to the bottling bucket. Siphon your beer into the bottling bucket and then siphon the beer into your bottles and cap. Your beer will be ready to drink after conditioning for two weeks at room temperature.

 

If you have any questions about the instructions in this recipe please call: 503 232 8793 or email info@fhsteinbart.com

 

Malt

Malt

900-A-1             7 lb. Light Liquid Malt Extract

1190-C-1           2 oz. Black Patent Malt

1193-M-2           8 oz. Melanoidin

 

Hops

1032-COL-5       1 oz. Columbus

1032-CAS-5       1 oz. Cascade

 

Yeast

1147-3               Dry option-US05

IMP-A07           Liquid option- Imperial Flagship

WY-1056-XL      or Wyeast 1056

 

You will also need:

1147-3               2 tsp. Burton Water Salts

870-D-1             4 oz. Priming Sugar for bottling

HSB                 2 Hop Steeping Bags

1081-A-1           Optional- 1 Whirfloc Tablet (to clarify beer)

Posted on

Oregon Super Dank

Featuring Mecca Grade Malt and Crosby Hops

Description: Oregon Super Dank is our indigenous NW

style ale. This beer features Opal 44, an estate grown malt from Mecca Grade that adds a subtle note of toffee and enough malt character to provide a backbone for the resinous Willamette Valley hops grown by Crosby Hop

Farm. The beer is finished off with a West Coast ale strain, which ferments quick and clean, creating an infinitely drinkable yet profoundly flavorful go-to beer.

Malt

7 lb. Extra Light Liquid Malt Extract

1 lb. Mecca Grade Opal 44 Malt

(crushed grains in steeping bag)

 

Hops

1 oz. Crosby Hop Farms Nugget

2 oz. Crosby Hop Farms Centennial

1 oz. Crosby Hop Farms Amarillo

1 oz. Crosby Hop Farms Comet

Yeast

BRY-97 American West Coast

(Liquid Yeast Alternative- Imperial Yeast, Buckman)

You will also need

4 oz. Priming Sugar for bottling

5 Hop Steeping Bags

Optional-1 Whirflock Tablet (to clarify beer)

 

ABV= 4.9

IBU= 55

OG= 1.048

FG= 1.010

SRM= 10

 


On Brew Day

  1. Heat 2.5 gallons of good quality water
  2. Steep crushed grains in steeping bag for 20-30 minutes or until the water reaches 170. Remove grains and compost.
  3. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Add liquid and/ or Dry Malt extract and stir to dissolve. The liquid is now called wort.  Return liquid to a boil, watching carefully for boil overs.

Hop Schedule:

A standard hop schedule tells you when to add your hops to the kettle throughout the one hour boiling time. Hops added

at 60 minutes are boiled for the entire hour. Hops added at 15 minutes are added when there are 15 minutes remaining in the boil. Etc.

  1. Use one ounce of hop pellets per steeping bag and tie a knot at the top- allowing as much room as possible for the hops to expand inside the bag.

1 oz. Nugget @ 60 min.

1 oz. Centennial @ 15 min.

(Add the Whirflock tablet at 15 min.)

1 oz. Amarillo @ 1 min.

1 oz. Comet, @ 1 min.

1oz. Centennial @ 1 min.

  1. Chill wort to 100 degrees as fast as possible. If you do not have a wort chiller, set the kettle in an ice bath in your sink.
  2. While the wort is chilling, sanitize fermenting equipment, carboy, stopper, airlock, funnel, etc.
  3. Add 2.5 gal. cold clean water to primary fermenter. Pour chilled wort into fermenter and top off with more cold water to reach 5 gallons.
  4. Aerate wort by putting a stopper in the carboy and rocking it back and forth for several minutes.
  5. Optional- take a specific gravity reading using a triple scale hydrometer and hydrometer jar. The reading should be approximately 1.048 Record the number as your OG (original gravity)
  6. Pitch your yeast when the wort is at room temperature (60-75 degrees.) Fill airlock with water or sanitizer to the fill line and seal fermenter.

 

Primary Fermentation

You will begin to see activity in the fermenter within 48 hours. A foamy cap will develop on the top of the beer and bubbles will escape through the airlock. Over the next several days the activity will begin to slow down. Primary fermentation typically lasts one to two weeks. Optional- rack the beer into a sanitized carboy being careful to leave behind any sediment. Leave the beer in this secondary fermenter for an additional one to two more weeks.

Bottling and Beyond

Fermentation is finished when the final gravity (FG) reads approximately 1.010, but the timing at this stage is flexible. When you are ready to bottle your beer, make a simple syrup by combing 4 oz. of priming sugar in a cup or two of water on the stove. Let this cool to room temperature. Sanitize your bottling equipment (Fifty 12 oz. bottles, auto-siphon, tubing, bottle filler, and bottle caps) and add the sugar to the sanitized bottling bucket. Siphon your beer into the bottling bucket to mix thoroughly with the priming sugar and then siphon the beer into your bottles and cap. Your beer will be ready to drink after conditioning for two weeks at room temperature.

If you have any questions about the instructions in this kit please call: 503 232 8793 or email info@fhsteinbart.com

Malt

900-AB-1           7 lb. Extra Light Liquid Malt Extract

1180-O44-1        1 lb. Mecca Grade Opal 44 Malt

Hops

1032-NUG-1       1 oz. Crosby Hop Farms Nugget

1032-CEN-1       2 oz. Crosby Hop Farms Centennial

1032-AMA-1      1 oz. Crosby Hop Farms Amarillo

1032-COM-5      1 oz. Crosby Hop Farms Comet

Yeast

1140-1               BRY-97 American West Coast

IMP-A39           Liquid Yeast Alternative- Imperial Yeast, Buckman)

You will also need:

870-D-7             4 oz. Priming Sugar for bottling

HSB                 2 Hop Steeping Bags

1081-A-1           Optional- 1 Whirflock Tablet

Posted on

Citra IPA

Citra IPA Recipe from Portland Oregon

Citra IPA

Our best-selling beer kit at F.H. Steinbart. Source: Duke Green

Description: This popular West Coast style I.P.A. is bursting with tropical fruit flavors and aromas from a full six ounces of Citra hops. The hoppyness is balanced by a soft malty backbone and finished with a clean US05 yeast. This beer is a year round favorite.

Malt

7 lb. Extra Light Liquid Malt Extract

1 lb. Dry Light Malt Extract

1 lb. Crystal 20

8 oz. Munich Malt

Hops

6 oz. Citra

Yeast

Dry option- US05

Liquid option- Imperial Flagship or Wyeast 1056

ABV= 5.5%

IBU= 60

OG= 1.062

FG= 1.018

SRM= 6

 

 


You will also need:

4 oz. Priming Sugar for bottling

6 Hop Steeping Bags

Optional- 1 Whirflock Tablet (to clarify beer)

 

On Brew Day

  1. Heat 2.5 gallons of good quality water
  2. Steep crushed grains in steeping bag for 20-30 minutes or until the water reaches 170. Remove grains and compost.

3.Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Add liquid and/ or Dry Malt extract and stir to dissolve. The liquid is now called wort.  Return liquid to a boil, watching carefully for boil overs.

During the boil

A standard hop schedule tells you when to add your hops to the kettle throughout the one hour boiling time. Hops added at 60 minutes are boiled for the entire hour. Hops added at 15 minutes are added when there are 15 minutes remaining in the boil. Etc.

4. Use one ounce of hop pellets per steeping bag and tie a knot at the top- allowing as much room as possible for the hops to expand inside the bag.

Hop Schedule:

1 oz. Citra @ 60 min.

1 oz. Citra @ 15 min.

(Add the Whirflock tablet at 15 min.)

1 oz. Citra @ 5 min.

2 oz. Citra- Dry hop in the secondary fermenter

for three days.

  1. Chill wort to 100 degrees as fast as possible. If you do not have a wort chiller, set the kettle in an ice bath in your sink.
  2. While the wort is chilling, sanitize fermenting equipment, carboy, stopper, airlock, funnel, etc.
  3. Add 2.5 gal. cold clean water to primary fermenter. Pour chilled wort into fermenter and top off with more cold water to reach 5 gallons.
  4. Aerate wort by putting a stopper in the carboy and rocking it back and forth for several minutes.
  5. Optional- take a specific gravity reading using a triple scale hydrometer and hydrometer jar. The reading should be approximately 1.062 Record the number as your OG (original gravity)
  6. Pitch your yeast when the wort is at room temperature (68-70 degrees.) Fill airlock with water or sanitizer to the fill line and seal fermenter.

 

Primary Fermentation

You will begin to see activity in the fermenter within 48 hours. A foamy cap will develop on the top of the beer and bubbles will escape through the airlock. Over the next several days the activity will begin to slow down. Primary fermentation typically lasts one to two weeks. Optional- rack the beer into a sanitized carboy being careful to leave behind any sediment. Leave the beer in this secondary fermenter for an additional one to two more weeks.

 

Bottling and Beyond

Fermentation is finished when the final gravity (FG) reads approximately 1.018, but the timing at this stage is flexible. When you are ready to bottle your beer, make a simple syrup by combing 4 oz. of priming sugar in a cup or two of water on the stove. Let this cool to room temperature. Sanitize your bottling equipment (Fifty 12 oz. bottles, auto-siphon, tubing, bottle filler, and bottle caps) and add the sugar to the bottling bucket. Siphon your beer into the bottling bucket to mix thoroughly with the sugar. Then siphon the beer into your bottles using the bottle filler and cap. Your beer will be ready to drink after conditioning for two weeks at room temperature.

If you have any questions about the instructions in this recipe please call: 503 232 8793 or email info@fhsteinbart.com

 

Malt

 

 

Hops and Yeast (dry and liquid options)

 

You will also need: